Galley Wench Tales

Exploring the world through the people we meet
and the food they eat.


Mulberry River launch area off Arkansas Pigtail Scenic Byway.

After confirming everything worked on “the beast”—aka our RV—after getting sideswiped, we made sure we got our ducks in a row for the insurance.

The barge on the Arkansas River across from our campsite at Aux Arc, Arkansas.

We expect that the bodywork our RV needs will prompt the insurance company of the woman who caused the accident to consider it totalled. It looks pretty bad. Meanwhile, we moseyed on down the road.

Ozark, Arkansas, view of the house atop the hill across from our campsite at Aux Arc, Arkansas.

Wayne tracked down a campsite at an Army Corps of Engineer site, at Aux Arc Park, across from the town of Ozark, Arkansas. With our America the Beautiful pass, it’s only $10/night. Much better than the Walmart lot in Henrietta, where we tucked in to assess the damage to our RV and spend the night.

Former Coley Grocery store in Ozark, Arkansas.

We found out the name “Ozark” came from a simplification of the French naming “Aux Arc.”

Former bookstore in Ozark, Arkansas.

We were curious to see the area because it looked so beautiful in the Netflix tv series Ozark. Technically, the series was set in Missouri; the Ozarks straddle Missouri, Arkansas and Oklahoma.

The bridge crossing the Arkansas River at Ozark Arkansas.

However, the series was shot in Georgia! 

Ozark, Arkansas is a small town, population 3,000-something, with some decent bones, but much of its sidewalks are rolled up for good.

Mulberry River Bridge from canoe and kayak takeout. Arkansas.

Our campsite at Aux Arc on the Arkansas River is picturesque, but the crown jewel of the area is the Pigtail Scenic Byway, named for because it’s the popular route for University of Arkansas sports fans to take to see Razorback games.

Tree at Mulberry River kayak takeout area. Arkansas.

The 19-mile stretch of road curves its way through brilliant foliage in you’re lucky enough drive it in the fall. With temps in the 70s and 80s. we picked a perfect day to enjoy the road.

Walking stick on Wayne’s shoe. Pigtail Scenic Byway, Arkansas.

When we stopped to enjoy views and a hike, we came across quite a few waking stick (insects) and daddy longlegs spiders. They were we;; camouflaged, but we’re grateful their scurring habits caught our eye so we didn’t step on them by mistake.

Glory Hole trailhead off Highway 23, near Pigtail Scenic Byway, Arkansas.

We enjoyed a leisurely start and pace and picked a relatively short trail to allow plenty of time to enjoy the drive and return before dark. At less than 2 miles round-trip, the Glory Hole trail fit the bill.

Homestead across from Glory Hole trailhead off Highway 23, near Pigtail Scenic Byway, Arkansas.

Throughout the drive, we saw quite a few former homes and barns in state of decay, including one directly across from the Glory Hole trailhead. However, when we left, we saw someone delivering a bale of hay onto the property.

Rock clives, Glory Hole trail, Arkansas.

Glory Hole trail was a former road, so other than a lot of potential ankle-twisting rocks, it was pretty easy hiking.

Ledge overhang, home of the Glory Hole. Arkansas.

The trail’s feature is a hole bored through an expansive rock, viewable from a hollowed-out cave-like ledge underneath. 

Glory Hole: a trickle in late October after a dry summer and fall. Arkansas.

We knew from reading reviews ahead of time that normally water basted through the hole, but not to expect much this fall.

Glory Hole: looking up from underneath. Arkansas.

Still, the hike was worth it even just to enjoy the fall foliage and inhale the rich scent of loam. Besides, if more water rushed through the hole, we would’ve missed out in the terrific view looking up through it from underneath.

Beautyberry, growing wild. Arkansas.

It’s a popular trail, but we encountered less than a dozen hikers on a Thursday in fall. We needed a good day after getting sideswiped. We’d love to come back and explore this area again someday. If you can make the time, do!

Fall decor: Clarksville, Arkansas.

Tomorrow we resume our convey form of travel, me in my Prius, Wayne in the RV, heading across Arkansas. We may or may not roost in Mississippi by the time we call it a day.